Friday, February 24, 2012

Tostones (Caribbean Islands)

      In the many islands that lie in the Caribbean sea there is a word among the Spanish speaking people there is a cuisine that has lasted for hundreds of years.  This is the cuisine known as Taino.  The Taino were a group of natives to the islands of Cuban, Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic etc.  Their diet primarily consisted of island fruits, vegetables, and roots.  One such fruit was that none as platonos or as they are called in English plantains.  Then after years of Spanish domination the people of these islands finally came to fry the fruits in oil which gave them a rather unique taste.
      The result of frying plantains in oil resulted in a dish known as Tostones which is to the Caribbean people as tortilla chips are to Mexicans.  The technique to making a perfect Tostone is to fry the chips twice.  The plantains are first sliced thick, deep fried in hot oil, removed from the oil and smashed down ( I use a saute pan), then the flattened plantain is fried again.  After the cooking process is complete you can serve the chips in more than a dozen ways.
      In my mothers family Tostones are always served as a side dish to any one of our more authentic meals.  But when I serve Tostones to any non-Puerto Rican guests I serve them as a finger food.  Then where other place a slew of peppers, onions, avocados, and sour cream I make a simple avocado sauce for the guests to dip their Tostones. 

Tostones with Avocado Sauce
5 large plantains
Salt to taste
Oil for Frying
3 tablespoons canned tomatillo sauce
2 large ripe avocado pitted, peeled, and cut into chunks
2 tablespoons minced white onion
2 cloves of chopped garlic
1/4 cup cilantro
1/2 cup sour cream

Peel the green plantains (unlike bananas they turn green when ripe) cut each plantain into 1/2 inch thick slices.  In a large fry pan fry the plantain pieces in oil that is about 325* on a candy thermometer.  Fry the plantains until golden brown then remove to a paper towel lined plate.  Place the fried plantains into a plastic bag (you may have to repeat this process many times depending on the size of the bag you use.  Using a saute pan smash the chips so that they are slightly flattened.  Return the chips to the oil to fry for another 2 minutes just until golden brown.  Remove from the pan to a paper towel lined plate to drain.  Salt the Tostones to taste.

In a blender combine the tomatillos, avocados, onion, garlic, and cilantro.  Fold the avocado mixture into the sour cream and place in the intended serving bowl.  Place the Tostones on a serving platter with the avocado sauce in the middle and serve immediately.

Serves 12

Note: if you want to have these chips ready ahead of time you can perform the first fry of the plantains and place in a parchment paper lined container separated into single layers.  They will only keep for about two weeks though. 

Pavlova (Australia)

      One tradition of the culinary world that has continued since man started writing their culinary innovations on paper comes in the naming of the dish.  As you have seen from some of the previous recipes on my blog, there are many dishes which bare the name of a very famous person in history. 
      Another dish which bares the name of a historical figure is that of the Pavlova.  This Australian dessert was named in honor of the famous Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova.  While she was on her second Australian tour the head chef Herbert Sachse, of the Hotel Esplande, saw the ballerina perform the dance which placed her in the annals of history "The Dying Swan".
      While watching Anna perform the solo he found that he was brought to tears by how beautifully Pavlova danced.  So the next night, the chef decided to create a new dish in honor of the ballerina.  The last night of her stay Sachse served the ballerina a dessert that no one had ever seen.  It was a pure white meringue with a topping of beautiful red strawberries.  Immediately one of Pavlovas entourage commented on how much the white meringue resembled the ballerinas tutu, which surprise surprise was Sachse intention.  Ever since that night, the Pavlova has been the national dessert of Australia and New Zealand.
       When I make a Pavlova I tend to keep things as simple as possible.  A simple meringue is slow cooked in the oven, allowed to cool and then topped with a Chantilly cream.  What I do differently is that I top the dessert with balsamic strawberries as I find that the tartness of the vinegar compliments the sweetness of the meringue and cream.  If you need a dessert that is light and sure to turn heads then this is something I would suggest.
      I do suggest you pay attention to the two warning in this recipe, or as I call them, the DO NOT'S.  Otherwise your pavlova will be in pieces. 

Ruby Red Pavlova
8 egg whites
2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons white vinegar
4 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla
1/2 cup powdered sugar
3 tablespoons butter
4 cups strawberries, halved
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 cup pomegranate arils (optional)

In a medium sized bowl place the egg whites with a pinch of salt.  Using an electric egg beater or mixer beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form.  Add in the sugar gradually, beating constantly after each addition.  Once all of the sugar has been incorporated continue to beat the egg whites until the mixture is thick and glossy.

Using a metal spoon, fold the cornstarch and vinegar into the egg whites.  Spoon the meringue onto a cookie sheet (12 1/2 x 11 1/4 inch) that has been line with parchment paper.  Lightly flatten the top and smooth the sides of the meringue till the meringue resembles a cake out of a pan.  Place the meringue into a 315* oven or until the meringue is lightly pale and crisp.  DO NOT LET THE MIXTURE BROWN, this is not a meringue pie. 

Remove the pavlova from the oven and while warm carefully turn the meringue upside down onto your intended serving plate.  DO NOT ALLOW THE PAVLOVA TO FULLY COOL ON THE COOKIE SHEET, it will stick to the paper and you will never get it off. 

While you are cooking the meringue melt the butter in a large saute pan add in the strawberries brown sugar and balsamic vinegar and mix just until the strawberries are warm and ruby red.  Remove the berries from the heat and set aside to cool.

In a large bowl with a set of clean egg beaters whip the cream powdered sugar and vanilla until stiff peaks begin to form.  Place the cream inside of a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip. 

When ready to serve pipe the cream on top of the baked meringue top with the cooked strawberries and garnish with the pomegranate arils.  Serve immediately.

Serves 8


   

Pizza (Italy)

      Here's a little history fun fact for you.  The United States is not the original "Melting Pot".  I know that School House Rock's catchey tune may say it differently, but the actual melting pot is Italy.  At the beggining of Western Civalization Italy was the country for new philosophy, religion, and most importantly great food. 
      One dish which is the epitamy of the "Melting Pot" ideology is Pizza.  All over the world you can not find some deviation of the original recipe for this savory pie.  When making your own you need only follow some simple rules.  First, you have to have some type of crust.  For my readers out there with complicated diets do not fret as there are many recipes for gluten free, sugar free, whole weat, vigan friendly pizzas (try saying that one five times fast).  Secondly, always use a set of great toppings.  You can use all the way from one to one hundred toping to your pizza, truth be told I have actually eaten a black truffle pizza with kobe beef ($75 for 1 9 inch pie but so worth it).  And lastly, use a great type of cheese.  I know that this is not vegin friendly but for many a pizza with no cheese is just no good.
      My pizza recipe is actually a Margarita pizza.  Now I know that the title of this pizza tends to bring two questions to thought, and to answer.  Yes, the pizza has a spansish influence.  No, it does not contain tequilla.  A Margarita Pizza is one of the original pizza recipes made for the queen of spain at least twice a week by her Italian head chef.  Suprisingly this pizza is what you and I might call a plain pizza as the only three ingredients are tomato, mozzarella cheese, and basil.
      The recipe I am giving to you is from a local Cleveland restaurant on Murray Hill or what we Clevelanders call our "Little Italy".  Like other italian dishes the dish is extremely simple and only requires some slight effort.  A note I wish to give you is that when you buy yeast, which is used in the dough, I would suggest doing the water test.  Combine 1 tablespoon of yeast with 1 cup of warm water and 1 teaspoon of sugar.  As we know from biology yeast is a living bacteria which we use to make things rise.  If the yeast does not bubble after mixing it with the flour and sugar than it is dead and you should throw it out immediatley.  You should always check your yeast, especially in pizza dough unless you want to lose a tooth or two.
     
Margarita Pizza
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour, plus extra for dusting and rolling.
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus extra for oiling your pan
6 tablespoons lukewarm water
6 tomatoes, sliced thinley
8 ounces mozzarella cheese, drained and sliced thinley
3 tablespoons fresh basil leaves shredded thinley

To make the dough, sift the flour and salt onto a clean work surface.  Mix in the yeast and form the flour mixture into a mound.  In the middle of your flour mound create a well and pour in 1 tablespoon of oil and the water.  Using your pointer finger gradually incorporate the dry ingredients into the liquid (Warning your hands will probably get a bit sticky whild doing this so flour your hands generously and do not wear any jewelry).

When the mixture has formed into a ball flour your hands again and knead the dough well for about five minutes (the dough should be very smooth and elastic after kneading).  Place the ball into a clean bowl and cover with a slightly damp towl.  Set the dough aside and allow to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, or at least until the dough has doubled in size.

Turn out the dough onto a lighly floured work surface and using a decent amount of force punch the dough down in the center.  Knead the dough briefly.  At this point you may either toss the dough yourself or roll out the dough with a floured rolling pin.  If you choose to toss the dough yourself be sure to flour your hands and be sure not to apply to much force as the dough will eventually rip. The dough should be about 1/4 of an inch thick after rolling or tossing.

Place the dough on a lighly oiled pizza pan or pizza stone (I love the way in which stone pizzas turn out, but the stone is very hard to clean).  Push up the edges of the dough to creat a moisture barrier.  Starting from the center of the pizza place the tomato and mozzarrella in alternating order.  Sprinkle the top fo the pizza with salt and the basil.  

Drizzle the pizza with olive oil and place in a 450* oven for 15-20 minutes.  or until the crust is crisp and the cheese has melted.  Serve warm

Serves 6-8 depending on size of slices.

   

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Beef Wellington (England)

      When I hear the name Wellington my first thought is of the first Duke of Wellington Sir Arthur Wellesley.  This was probably what the French chef who invented Beef Wellington thought as well, because, the truth is that Beef Wellington is not named for the legendary hero of the Battle of Waterloo.  In other words, the stories that the dish was given his name due to his love for it or that the name originated from a resemblance to the heroes boots is just a series of falsehoods. 
      The funny thing about all of this, they thought that the name would convince people it was English instead of changing the recipe.  One of the original written versions of the recipe called for wild mushrooms, foie gras, truffles and a crepe.  Who were they trying to fool, a 10 year old?
       The first step to a good Beef Wellington is the use of a great cut of meat.  This does mean spending money for a good beef tenderloin.  Luckily this is all that you need to spend a lot of money on as there are many more recession friendly substitutions.  First, don't use shaved black truffles.  Truffles are probably more expensive than caviar, so it's best to just axe them from the menu. Next remove the Foie Gras.  Foie Gras, a very nutty duck liver pate, has a very high price tag and usually must be ordered through a mail service.  In place of the Foie Gras use a lower quality duck pate as you can flavor it with some Madeira wine to give it a high quality flavor.  Finally, nix the crepe, as it is better to let the pastry absorb the juices from the tenderloin.
 
Beef Wellington
1 beef tenderloin ( 3 pounds)
3 cups baby bella mushrooms, washed and sliced
2 teaspoons crushed garlic
1 teaspoon fresh basil, chopped
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup Madeira
3/4 cup duck liver pate
1 package (13 ounces) frozen puff pastry, thawed
1 egg
2 teaspoons water

Place a grill grate onto the stove and heat and coat with about 3 tablespoons of olive oil.  Season the beef tenderloin with salt and pepper and place on the grill grate to sear.  Cook the tenderloin about 5 minutes per side, just until the meat is browned on each side. 

Place the meat in a roasting pan and set in a 425* oven for about 10 minutes.  Remove the beef from the oven and allow it to cool.  Meanwhile in a saute pan melt the butter, add the mushrooms and saute until they are brown and tender.  Lower the heat and mix in the Madeira until it has reduced by half.  In a large bowl combine the mushroom mixture and the pate.  Fold the basil into the pate. 

Roll out the puff pastry to 1/4 inch thickness.  Place the tenderloin onto the puff pastry, coat the top of the tenderloin with the pate mixture and roll the tenderloin up in the pastry.  In a small bowl combine the egg and water, brush the edges of the pastry and fold the edges underneath the meat.  Place the Wellington seamed sided down on a baking sheet.  Brush the top of the Wellington with the remaining egg wash and place back in the oven for 50 to 60 minutes.  After the first 25 minutes cover the Wellington with foil.  When an instant read meat thermometer reads 125*, remove the Wellington from the oven and allow it to rest covered for 10 minutes before carving. 

Serves 8

Sunday, February 12, 2012

French Silk Pie (United States)

       Surprise, Surprise!  French Silk Pie is not the least bit french.  The origin of this wonderful confection comes from the bread basket states, mainly Pennsylvania, where farmers wives gave it this name as a way to make it seem much more fancy than it actually was.  I don't know why they felt the need to give it this label, as this pie is the epitome of classy cream pies.
       The original recipe for this creative confection I have a slight problem with, as it tends to contain raw egg yolks.  As you can see if it were not for our friend Sammy Nila (ha ha, get it. No well it's because of salmonella  poisoning).  Luckily newer versions of this recipe allow you to fully cook your egg yolks when making the chocolate custard filling.  The pie is then topped with a stiff whipped cream and some chocolate curls to finish.
      My version of French Silk Pie actually came about through a mistake while baking late at night.  I was catering a small party for a sorority and was up at two in the morning trying to finish the desserts.  Well while making the pies whipped cream topping I accidentally added in my instant cappuccino powder, which I had been drinking in an attempt to stay awake, in place of the intended powdered sugar.  Well I guess it was one of those signs from above, because after had taken a moment out of my panic I actually found that the coffee paired well with the creamy chocolate pie.  When I served it the next day, the French Silk Pie was the first dish to go.  Even more surprising was the amount of alumni asking me for the recipe.  After some additional experimentation I finally came to a recipe which I could make confidentaly.

Cafe Style French Silk Pie
1 blind baked 9 inch Amish pie crust (see note) 
5 ounces chocolate (bittersweet), broken into pieces
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
tablespoon cornstarch
6 egg yolks
1 1/2 cups ground almonds (see note)
2 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons coffee liquor
1 tablespoon instant capucino powder
2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Place a heatproff bowl over a pan of simmering water.  Add in the chocolate and stir to melt.  In a large bowl cream together the butter and sugar, add in the cornstarch and egg yolks.  To the egg mixutre gently fold in the chocolate.  Spoon the mixture into the pie and place in a 375* oven for about 10 minutes to allow the mixture to cook.  Remove the pie from the oven and allow to fully cool before continuing with the next step.   

In a mixer equipped with a whisk attachment mix the heavy cream until heavy peeks begin to form.  Gently fold the liquor, capucino powder, and powdered sugar into the heavy cream. allow the cream to chill before continuing with the next step.

Place the whipped cream into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip.  Pipe small morsels of the cream onto the top of the pie continuing in circles.  Serve immediatley or place the freezer until ready to serve.  If you would like to give the pie extra flair then you might shave some chocolate over top of the pie.

Serves 8

(Note: You can find the Amish pie crust recipe on my blog on Apple Pie.  Make the pie crust as instructed and only use one of the balls to roll out the one 9-inch pie.  Using a fork place a set of small hole in the bottom of the crust to ensure that it does not bubble.  For added precaution you should line the bottom of the pan with alluminum foil and place either commercial pie weights or beans in the bottom to weigh the crust down.  Bake in a 325* oven until the crust is a light golden color).

(Note: When making your own ground almonds place about 2 teaspoons in the food processor with the almonds to ensure that the almonds do not reach an oily consitency.)    

Friday, February 10, 2012

Creme Caramel (France)

      In the world of Spanish Cuisine the dish is called flan, but in French cuisine it is Creme Caramel.  There has often been a debate about which country deserves the credit for the origin of this egg baked custard.  It probably doesn't help much that there are two cities in both of the countries that have the dish as their speciality.  In Touluse, France and in Victoria, Spain the dish is baked and served at almost everyone of their restaurants.
      No matter which you believe to be responsible for Creme Caramel the basic recipe is always the same.  A custard of eggs, sugar, and vanilla is cooked before being placed in a ramekin or pie pan that has been coated with a sweet caramel.  The dessert is then finished off by being baked in a water bath or a bain-mais which comes from France.
       My version of Creme Caramel gets its sweetness from the use of natural sugar in the place of artificial by using oranges.  This dish is the perfect end to a wide variety of meals, though I suggest that you pair it with a nice sweet white wine, such as a moscato. 

Orange Creme Caramel
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon orange juice
2 cups cream
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange peel
1 teaspoon vanilla

In a small saucepan combine sugar and orange juice.  Place the pan over low heat and allow the sugar to melt, then allow to boil without stirring until the sugar caramelizes and is amber brown.  Watch carefully to prevent it from burning.  Pour immediately into a souffle dish.  Turn the dish around so that it coats the bottom and the sides of the dish evenly. 

In a saucepan scald the cream.  Meanwhile whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, sugar, orange rind, and the vanilla.  Whisk in the cream.

Pour the custard into the prepared souffle dis, cover with foil, and set into a larger baking dish.  Pour boiling water into the larger dish till it is halfway up the sides of the souffle dish.  Place in a 325* oven and bake in the oven for 40 to 50 minutes, or until the custard has just set.  Let cool completely. 

Serve the creme at room temperature or refrigerate covered until you are ready to serve it.  When ready to serve take a very warm cloth and place it around the souffle dish and turn over onto a serving platter with very deep sides (trust me you will need deep sides to keep the caramel from pouring over). 

Serves 6

Sweet and Sour Pork/Chicken (Chinese Fusion)

       Like Crab Rangoon, Chicken with Broccoli, and Mussels in Mayonnaise the dish Sweet and Sour Pork/Chicken is what we call a fusion dish.  The recipe did originate in China,broccoli using sugar and vinegar to mingle the flavors of sweet and sour, but it went through an extreme metamorphosis when it crossed the ocean into the Americas. 
       Unlike the original recipe, the American version is somewhat "Brighter" drawing its color from the mixture of pineapples and ketchup of all things.  The mixture creates a bright red mosaic which can be served on the side or over top of the chosen meat. 
       My version of this recipe uses ketchup, but not in the traditional way.  Where some use it in the sauce I use it in the batter which when fried encases the meat in a bronze crust.  The sauce instead of ketchup uses tomato paste and chili sauce to give it a bit of extra zing. 

Sweet and Sour Pork/Chicken
3 pounds pork or chicken cut into 1 inch slices. 
2 cups broccoli
4 tablespoons flour
4 tablespoons cornstarch
1 tablespoon ketchup
1 egg, beaten
3 egg whites, unbeaten
oil for frying
1 can (20 ounces) pineapple tidbits with juice
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons chili sauce
2 tablespoons corn starch
2 tablespoons cold water
4 cups rice (washed and drained)
4 1/2 cups water
1/4 cup lime juice
1/2 cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped
3 tablespoons salt

In a large bowl combine the flour, 4 tablespoons of cornstarch, ketchup, egg, egg whites and salt.  After the batter ingredients have been well blended.  In a large airtight container place the pork/chicken, pour the frying batter over the meat and place the lid on top of the container before proceeding to shake vigorously for about 2 minutes.  Refrigerate the meat for at least 1 hour shaking to coat every fifteen minutes.

While the meat is in the refrigerator place the pineapple into a 2 quart saucepan add in the sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, tomato paste and chili sauce.  Heat the sauce over a medium heat stirring constantly just until the sauce is heated through.  In a small bowl mix the cornstarch and water stirring to a clear consistency.  In a blender place the cornstarch solution and the hot sauce mixture.  Blend until the sauce has reached a fine puree.  Return the sauce to the pan and keep warm until ready to serve.

To cook the chicken heat 1 inch of oil in a skillet or use a deep fryer and set to 375*.  Fry the meat slices a bit at a time until the crust has reached a deep golden brown.  Remove from the hot oil to paper towels to allow the oil to drain off.  Place the meat on a cookie sheet in a 200* oven to ensure that the chicken finished cooking. 

While the chicken is finishing in the oven place the broccoli in a small pan with a small amount of water.  Place over a medium heat and allow the broccoli to steam until fork tender. 

In a large pan place the rice and 4 1/2 cups of water over a high heat.  Place the cover over the pan and allow to cook for about 30 minutes or until all of the water is boiled out.  Stir the rice and add in the cilantro, lime and remaining salt. 

To finish the dish combine the broccoli and meat in a large serving bowl, pour the sauce over the meat and give it a light toss.  Serve the chicken/pork over the rice.  

Serves 5  

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Pumpkin Pie (United States)

      One of our first exports sent back to Europe, the first pumpkin pie was nothing like we know today.  In the 15th century  pumpkin pie was actually more of a custard that was not served inside of the hollowed out pumpkin instead of a pie shell.  After removing the seeds from the hollowed pumpkin a mixture of apples and raisins would be placed inside and the pumpkin would be baked until all of the ingredients had become soft and tasty.  Eventually, when factors such as: famine; raiding natives; and the common cold were no longer an issue, the egg and pumpkin filling was finally placed in a pastry shell and the rest is history.
      This dish has gone through many changes over the centuries.  As different spices became available and pumpkin became more readily available through the course of the year, pumpkin pies became a focal point for flavor experimentation in the world of "Haute Cuisine".  Through my years of of working with food I have found hundreds of different variations: some using alcohol which is the secret ingredient in the Real Seafood Companies 'Pumpkin Cognac Cheescake'; others go so far as to use chocolate and hazelnuts to flavor their pumpkin pie. 
      While these are all fantastic dishes, which I would suggest trying, I prefer that my pumpkin pie be made simple and with fresh ingredients.  When I first started experimenting on my own version of pumpkin pie I wanted something that was a bit lighter than the traditional pumpkin; mostly so I wouldn't feel guilty about having more than one piece on Thanksgiving or Christmas Day.  So, after a few experiments which lead to pies which were either to bland or to heavy, I found that what the recipe needed was buttermilk.

Buttermilk Pumpkin Pie
1 can (29 ounces) pumpkin puree or about 4 cups
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 1/2 teaspoons nutmeg
1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 teaspoon salt
6 eggs (large), yolks and whites separated
1 cup (light) brown sugar
4 tablespoons flour
2 cups buttermilk
1 batch amish pie crusts rolled out for two pies (Recipe available in my Blog about Apple Pie)

In a large bowl combine the pumpkin, lemon juice, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, vanilla and salt, mixing well with a wooden spoon after each addition.  In a small bowl beat the egg yolks with the whisk for 30 seconds, add in the sugar and continue to whisk until they turn a lemony yellow color.  Add the egg yolk mixutre to the pumpkin mixture and mix well (the filling should now be a bright orange color).  Add the flour a tablespoon at a time and mix well after each addition.  Finally add the buttermilk to the pumpkin mixture and stir well. 

In a seperate bowl (not copper) whisk the egg white until it reaches the soft peak stage.  Gently fold the egg whites into the pumpkin mixture until well mixed. 

Roll the dough for the crusts out on a floured surface (Note: when rolling out dough for a sweet pie you should create a mixture that is half all-purpose flour and half powdered sugar to ensure that the dough remains slighly sweet after rolling).  Place the dough into two 9 inch pie pans, which have been slightly greased, trimm the edges of the pie and crimp the excess to create a border for the pie.  Split the pumpkin mixture between the two prepeared pie shells and place on a cookie sheet to prevent any spilage in your oven.

Place the pies on the middle rack of a 375* oven for 30-35 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center of the pies comes out clean.  You can serve the pies immediatley or allow them to cool which is my preffered method.  Whipped Cream is a must.


Makes two 9 inch pies serving 8 a piece.