Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Cous Cous (North Africa)

     In cooking as in life we should always acknowledge the value of a second chance.  I can honestly say that every time I have made something new there has been something that has gone wrong.  I think this is why I have the crash test rule, where I make the same dish the week before intended to make sure that I can do it right. 
     A great example of the second chance recipe is my experience with Couscous.  When I first tried the dish it was something between the Shanghai Lianhuanan Road building collapse and Chernobyl.  It was this soggy mess of shellfish and vegetables which I swore off from the first bite.
     Later on a friend of mine who works at a restaurant served me a breakfast Couscous which I could not stop thinking about after just looking at it.  It had apricots and yogurt and just blew my mind to where I had to give Couscous a second chance.
      Now I know that if you have seen Couscous you probably though it was some type of rice.  What is actually is is little pieces of semolina flour rolled into pasta pellets.  The pasta pieces are then cooked either by steaming or pouring boiled water/broth over them. Traditionally shellfish and vegetables are added to the mixture before serving. 
      My recipe for Couscous takes this North African dish and flavors it with the fruits of the Caribbean.  Mango juice is heated with grated ginger and orange peel and then mixed with fruits which is all combined with the Couscous. 

Tropical Breakfast Couscous
4 cups mango juice
1 tablespoon grated ginger
1 tablespoon grated orange peel
2 cups couscous
4 cups assorted berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, etc), plus extra for serving
2 tablespoons golden syrup
 
In a medium sized saucepan bring the mango juice, ginger and orange peel.  Bring the mixture to a boil.  Place the couscous into a large bowl and pour the juice mixture over it.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside for 5-10 minutes. 
 
Once the couscous has cooked through break up the chunks with a fork.  While mixing add the berries and gently fold in.  Divide into each individual bowl and top with the remaining berries.  Drizzle with the syrup before serving.
 
Serves 6
 
 
 


Spätzle ( Eastern Europe)

      Known by many names this side dish is a mix between a dumpling and a noodle.  Typically there is three ingredients; flour, salt and flour.  The sticky dough is then separated into penny sized drops which are then boiled until the Spätzle rises to the surface. 
    When I originally learned how to make a Spätzle it was from my grandmother who made them in the traditional way.  Now when I say the traditional way, I mean the method of using two spoons over a pot to separate the dough.  If you are doing this by yourself it can become rather maddening. But if you have a few good cooks around the pot it gives you a good time to catch up.   But do not fret, many different makers of culinary devices usually create Spätzle presses or graters which make quick work of the process.
     Spätzles go with so many dishes from chicken paprikash to vegetable soup, but what I really love is a batch of Spätzles with beer gravy.  The recipe goes great with pork or beef complementing the heartiness of the meal. 
     
Spätzles with Beer Gravy
2 cups flour
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup milk
1 tablespoon minced garlic.
2 tablespoons butter
2 shallots minced
2 tablespoons flour
1 bottle dark beer (lager)
1/2 cup beef stock
Salt and Pepper to taste.
 
In a large bowl mix together the flour, eggs, milk and garlic.  Continue to mix until the dough is sticky.  
 
Bring a 2 quart saucepan of salted water to a boil.  Either use the traditional method which was listed above, or use a well greased spätzle maker.  Drop the spätzles into the boiling water making sure not to overcrowd the pan.  When the spätzles rise to the top of the pan then skim them off of the top of the water.  Place in a large bowl until ready to serve.
 
In another sauce pan melt the butter and use to saute with the shallots.  Place the flour into the pan and stir together to create a rue.  Cook the rue in the pan just until browned. Pour the beer and stock into the the pan stirring constantly to avoid any lumps in the gravy.  Bring to a boil and reduce the heat allowing to simmer for 5-10 minutes.  Add the salt and pepper at this time.  Serve immediately.


Serves 6
 
 

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Chili (United States)

      Very little is known about where this stew came from.  But what we do know about chili is that it didn't come from Mexico.  As many in the Culinary world have stated "If Chili came from Mexico, then why can I only order it off a room service menu?". 
      Although the spice is Mexican in origin, the dish is a product of the culinary movement called 'Tex Mex'.  Chili peppers mix with ground meat, onions, and water which is then boiled over a low flame until the flavors meld till spicy meaty goodness is achieved.  If you are living on a budget then this is a great staple for your kitchen as a 2 gallon pot of chili usually only will cost you about $10.00.
      I think this is why I love the idea of a "Chili Dump".  Now for those of you who took a second glance at the word in quotations and said to yourself "What did he do to that chili?" allow me to explain. A Chili Dump is a fun dinner party for the fall where every guest brings their own version of chili.  Upon arrival the different batches of chili are thrown into a large stock pot and cooked over a low flame allowing the flavors to meld why everyone exchanges in conversation.  The end result is a pot of chili that is a mesh of all of the flavors which usually better than what you started with.  It's also a really good excuse to get together with people before the holiday season turns you into a crazy person. 
      Now I tend to favor a bit of spice when I eat chili, which is why I use chipotle peppers.  My Chipotle Chili is made to feed a crowd and freezes well so one batch is going to last you for a while.  That said make a batch and get ready for a long battle with a brisk fall and chilly winter.

Chipotle Chili
 
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 pounds ground beef
3 pounds ground turkey
2 large red onions finely diced.
2 cans (7 ounces each)chipotle peppers in adobo
1 can (7 ounces) tomato paste
1/4 cup minced garlic
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
3 cups frozen corn
2 bunches cilantro minced (about 1 cup)
2 cans (13 ounces each) pink beans
7 cups chicken broth
4 cups water
2 cans (12 ounces each)  crushed tomatoes
salt and pepper to taste.
 
In a dutch oven heat the oil.  Brown the beef and turkey in the dutch oven until both are cooked through.  Drain the meat and place in a 2 gallon stock pot. 
 
In the dutch oven saute the onions and garlic until they both become translucent and fragrant.  Add in the peppers and tomato paste and saute for two minutes.  Pour in the vinegar and allow to cook for an additional minute.
 
Pour the pepper mixture and the remaining ingredients into the stock pot with the mean and cook over low heat for 90 minutes.  Serve immediately or allow to cool and place in separate containers to freeze.
 
 
Serves 10-15
 
 

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Philly Cheesesteak (United States)

      Let's be honest, when you here the names ' Cocky Joe Lorenzo' and 'The Olieveri Brothers' you might think that I was talking about the characters in some Mafia drama, not the inventors of one of the most famous sandwiches on the east coast. 

    But, that is what is funny about the culinary world, is that an innovation can come from the most unlikely of places.  The Philly Cheese steak is one of those foods which once you crave, no other food with suffice.  Thinly sliced pieces of steak, sauteed with onions and peppers, then stuffed into a hoaggy role before being topped with provolone cheese.
     Now originally I was not a fan of this Pennsylvanian import, partially because of my die hard loyalty to the Cleveland Browns, which requires that you cringe any time something near to Pittsburgh is mentioned.  But more so for the fact that my first cheese steak was a bit of "Mock Cheese Steak." 

     While in college one off my friends decided that she would treat me to dinner.  She maid her mothers 'Moc Philly' which was a concoction of these frozen meat slices called 'Steakums', 'Frenches Fried Onions', green peppers, 'Cheese Wiz' all stuffed into a hot dog bun.  After two bites I excused myself from the table and purged for the sake of my arteries.
    
      Two lessons learned that day.  The first is that you can always blame it on the alcohol.  The second never trust the word 'Moc'.
   
      After the ulcers from the 'Mock Philly' had healed I did experiment with the sandwich until I found the actual healthy versions of the Philly Cheese Steak.  A word to the wise foodie, if you can not find Alfalfa use a small green such as baby spinach. 

(If you are packing this sandwich away for later, please do not add the mayo until later. Pack a plastic butter knife a small container or the juices from the steak will mix with the mayo and disintegrate your bun.)


Philly Cheese Steak.

1 medium sized flank steak (about 2 pounds)
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Salt and Pepper to taste
1/2 cup green peppers, sliced
1/2 cup onions cut into rings
12 slices provolone cheese
4 pretzel sub rolls
1/2 cup alfalfa sprouts
mayonnaise (optional)

Using a kitchen mallet tenderize the flank steak until the meat has flattened slightly.  In a large zip lock bag or meat tenderizer combine the flank steak oil vinegar and salt and pepper and marinade for up to 4 hours or overnight. 

Place the flank steak onto an oiled grill pan and cook 8-10 minutes on each side or until well done.  Cover the steak with aluminum foil and set aside to rest. 

In a medium skillet saute the peppers and onions.  Saute the vegetables until golden brown.  Slice the meat into 1/4 inch slices.  If using the mayonnaise spread a thin layer on the bottom bun.  Top the bun with the slices of meat then the peppers finish with the cheese and alfalfa.  Serve immediately. 

Serves 4.





Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Dulce de Leche (South & Central America)

      Move over Caramel, Dulce de Leche is the true king of the dessert toppers.  This cooked cream, literally meaning 'Milk Candy', has been flavoring desserts in the Latin culinary world since about the 19th century.  It was originally used as a topper for cakes and a flavoring for coffee, however when it came to the U.S. it almost immediately became the new topper for ice cream.
      Now most people are surprised when I tell them this, but Dulce de Leche only requires one ingredient.  No that is not a typo, all that you need is condensed milk you bake it in a water bath and voilà.

Dulce de Leche
2 cans (12 ounces each) sweetened condensed milk

In a medium sized pan or kettle bring water do a boil (it usually is about 5-6 cups).  Pour the condensed milk into a 9 inch glass pie plate.  Place the pie plate into a 9 x 13 pan.  Pour the boiling water into the pan just until it is about halfway up the sides of a pan. 

Cover the 9x13 pan with aluminum foil and place in a 350* oven cook for 10-15 minutes or until the milk has turned golden brown and has thickened.  Remove from the oven and scrape the contents into a bowl.  Give the dulce de leche a quick whisk.  Place in an airtight container or sanitized jar and store until ready to use.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups. 



Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Floating Islands (France)

    Well my friends, today marks the momentous hundredth birthday of the ever famous queen of French Cooking the late and great Julia Childs.  Of all of my idols in the culinary world, she is one of my all time favorites.  In fact, hers was the first cook book which I had ever read.  I remember being a 10 year old in the cookbook section of my local library reading her recipes with as much enthusiasm as if I were reading a canonized epic.  She had a way with her words that the rest of us fail to mimic and she will always be remembered for it. 
      My all time favorite find in Julia's 'Mastering the Art of French Cooking' was her recipe for floating Island's, or as the French call them "Ile flottante".  Beautiful poached meringues swimming in a sea of Creme Anglaise then drizzled with caramel sauce.   Floating Islands just has an excellence to it's simplicity, much like the little black dress.
     Now although I love Julia's version of the recipe, I gave it yet another one of my ethnic twists back when I was in college.  Rather than have the white meringues against a white background with a hint of color from the caramel; I gave the dish a chocolaty spin with a cinnamon anglaise which is then drizzled with Dulce de Leche (recipe available in the blog of the same name).  Bon Appétit!

Chocolate Floating Islands
8 egg whites
pinch of salt
1 cup sugar (divided)
1 tablespoon unsweetened coco powder
4 egg yolks
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 cup hazelnuts, chopped
Dulce de Leche

In a large bowl beat the egg whites and salt together until the mixture begins soft peaks.  Slowly add 3/4 cup of the sugar beating well after each addition.  Continue to beat until the egg white become very stiff fold in the coco powder.  Place the meringue mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil then reduce to a gentle simmer.  Pipe a mound of the meringue mixture onto a metal spatula then using a knife or another spatula slide the meringue into the hot water.  Poach the meringue in the water for about 2 minutes then flip it over to continue poaching for another 4 minutes, then remove from the water and set on a wire rack to dry.  Repeat the process until you have 12 meringues. 

While the meringues dry, beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar.  In a medium sized pan, scald the milk and add it to the egg mixture in a slow steady stream.  Whisking constantly to prevent the eggs from cooking to much.  Place the bowl over a pot of boiling water to create a double boiler.  Cook stirring constantly until the cream begins to thicken and coats the back of a spoon.  Remove from heat and allow to cool.  Whisk in the vanilla and cinnamon and set aside. 

Place the chopped hazelnuts in a skillet over medium heat and toast for at least 5 minutes, do not allow to over brown.

To assemble spoon a portion of the creme anglaise onto the plate.  Place two of the cooked meringues onto the sauce.  Sprinkle the chopped hazelnuts over top.  Finish with a drizzle of the Dulce de Leche.  Serve immediately.

Serves 6


Eggs Benedict (United States)

      I always wonder where the idea of brunch came about.  My theory is that a certain someone woke up after a long night of drinking and tried to get breakfast at two in the afternoon.  So in order to make the waitress agree he gave it a catchy name.  No matter how it came about, I love this honorary meal time because it spawned one of my favorite egg dishes... Eggs Benedict.
      Now there is a long going war concerning the true originator of the first Eggs Benedict.  Delmonico's on Beaver Street and the Waldorf Hotel on Park Avenue both have claimed that there chefs created the dish.  No matter the maker, the dish is a true example of the American melting pot.  An English muffin toasted and topped with a slice of Canadian bacon and with a nice drizzle of French hollandaise sauce; Now that is the true American spirit.
      My version of Eggs Benedict is an omage to my dream of having breakfast at a steakhouse.  I take a piece of tenderloin wrap it in bacon then grill to perfection.  I then placed this and the poached eggs over a toasted sour dough roll.  Then for the topping I switch out the Hollandaise for a Bearnaise sauce which is a signature for any good steak.
      A note to all who are trying to make this dish for a special someone.  Poaching eggs is not easy if you have never attempted this before.  It is a process which many tend to screw up.  If this is your first time then use a measuring cup.  Place the eggs in the cup and gently flip the egg into the boiling water.  Afterwards quickly use a wooden spoon to push the white over the yolk.  After a few minutes you will have a gently poached beautiful egg.



Steak House Eggs Benedict
1/2 pound beef tenderloin
1 pound bacon
8 eggs
4 sourdough rolls
1 large bunch of tarragon
1 shallot finely chopped
1/3 cup white wine vinegar
2 egg yolks
3/4 cup butter, cut into small cubes

Slice the tenderloin into 4 equal pieces.  Using mallet tenderize the meat so that it will cook more evenly.  Wrap each in two slices of bacon and set aside.  Heat a large skillet and drizzle with olive oil.  Cook the tenderloins until the beef is medium, at least 10 minutes. 
Cover and allow to rest while you prepare the rest of the dish.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.  Place the eggs two at a time and cook for 2-3 minutes until softly poached.  Remove from the water and set aside.

Slice the rolls in half brush with olive oil and toast over a low heat.

To prepare the sauce remove the most tender leaves from the tarragon and finely chop the leaves, set aside. Roughly chop the tougher parts of the tarragon and place in a small sauce pan with the shallots, vinegar and bring to a simmer. Simmer the mixture until it has reduced to about a tablespoonful. Pass the mixture through a fine mesh sieve to remove the tough pieces of tarragon.

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil, and place a heatproof glass bowl over top to create a double boiler. Whisk the egg yolks with the tarragon reduction, continue to whisk until the mixture begins to thicken. Add the butter a piece at a time and whisk it until the sauce is begins to thicken further. Add in the finely chopped tarragon leaves and mix with the dash of pepper.

To assemble place the bottom of the roll onto a plate, place the tenderloin on top, top with two of the poached eggs drizzle the sauce over top, finish the top of the roll.  Serve immediately.

Serves 4